Among our basic necessities, clothing will always remain towards the top. Partly due to this, humans have always experimented with different fabrics, one of which is flannel.
Flannel is a squashy woven fabric that has raised fibres on one or both sides. This feature imparts softness to the material, which is its unique property. Flannel was originally made up of carded wool or worsted yarn. Nowadays, flannel is made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fibre. Flannel is mainly used to make tartan clothing, blankets, bedsheets, and sleepwear.
It is believed to be made in Wales as early as the 16th century. In the 19th century, flannel was made mainly in towns and cities such as Newtown, Montgomeryshire and Llanidloes. Its production growth is closely connected with the spread of carding mills, which prepared the wool for spinning. This was the first aspect of manufacturing woollen cloth to be mechanized. The Drapers Company of Shrewsbury mostly controlled the marketing of these Welsh woollen clothes.
Originally flannel was made of fine, short-staple wool, but by the time of the 20th-century, mixtures of silk and cotton had become ordinary. At this time, flannel trousers became popular in sports, especially cricket and football, in which it was used heavily until the late 1970s. Nowadays, types of flannel are often known for their alliance with certain Welsh towns or regions. For instance, Llanidloes flannel is very dissimilar from Newtown flannel, and Welsh flannel varieties vary remarkably from all other European flannel types.
As plaid experienced a brief renewal in popularity in the 1990s, flannel also witnessed higher demand. Over the years, the definition of “flannel” has slackened and separated from the original Welsh meaning. Nowadays, fabrics made with feigned fibres are considered in the same common category as traditional Welsh flannel garments that have been passed down through the generations.
The origin of the word is unknown, but it is believed it came from the Welsh word “gwlanen”. It can be traced back to Wales, where it was known in the early 16th century. The fabric was called ”Welsh cotton”; it was a coarse woollen material with a bungle surface similar to flannel. But it is also known that the French word “flannelle” was commonly used as early as the 17th century.
Flannel nowadays is made chiefly on the shuttleless looms, also known as projectile looms. Some mills also make this fabric on high-speed air-jet looms. The fabric consists of two interlacing yarns which are called warp and weft. The warp or the vertical yarns are usually finer than the weft or horizontal yarns. The thick weft yarns are brushed once the fabric is made. Brushing can be done on one side or both sides of the flannel fabric, which depends upon the requirement and end-use. Brushing is a process where a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fibres from the loosely spun yarns to form a fluffy surface on one or both sides. If the flannel is not raised on the surface, it can be imparted softness by using loosely twisted yarns during its weaving.
Flannel has been made in pure cotton for a long time, but today weaving mills are also making flannel fabrics of different compositions, including synthetic fibres such as polyester and rayon. Synthetic fibres have the advantage of imparting strength and durability to the fabric. While many materials can be used to make flannel, not all materials are acceptable for this fabric. Silk, for instance, is too fine to be made into flannel, which is supposed to be both soft and resistant.
Flannelette commonly refers to a napped cotton fabric emulating the texture of flannel. The weft is commonly coarser than the warp. A fluffy surface creates the flannel-like form from the weft by scratching and raising it up. Flannelette can have a long or short nap or fluff and can be napped on one or both sides.
Baby flannel is a thin fabric used for baby blankets and swaddles.
Cotton flannel, also known as Canton flannel, is a cotton fabric raised on one side only while the other side has a twill surface.
Ceylon flannel is made with a composition including wool and cotton mixture in equal ratios.
Diaper flannel is a bulky cotton fabric napped on both sides.
Vegetable flannel was initially made by Léopold Lairitz in Germany. It was in the 1800s when fibres from the Scots pine were used rather than wool.
The term “flannel shirt” is often wrongly used to refer to any shirt with a plaid or tartan pattern. However, ‘flannel’ refers simply to the fabric, and not all flannel shirts and clothing are plaid.
Flannel may be a brushed texture or remain an un-brushed texture, and both textures are equally iconic and soft.
Flannel is not the same thing as plaid. While plaid refers to a specific design that can be made on any fabric or interior surface. Flannel is a type of fabric that has been produced with softness in mind. Although some plaid shirts and other plaid apparel are made from flannel, not all plaid garments and bedsheets are flannel.
Even though flannel and plaid often go together, but the best way to put it together is that “Flannel is a fabric; plaid is a design.”
Plaid can be seen in any number of fabrics and colours. On the other hand, flannel can come in a variety of designs.
Generally, the fabric must be fabulously soft to be considered flannel, as this is its unique feature. When used in making button-down shirts, this fabric is extremely well-liked. It goes rather well when used for outdoor garments. In addition to shirts, this fabric can also be used for other everyday wear like cardigans, sweaters, and other clothing items that stop cold.
Other items include:
This fabric can be used in making accessories like belts, purses, bags, sweaters etc. For making accessories, the plaid colour design is used more often.
Softness and moisture-wicking are some of the features of this fabric. Based on its texture, this fabric is preferred for making items like bedsheets, blankets, towels and other household items used for warmth.
If you have a ready-made item from flannel fabric, you will need to make a few adaptations primarily because you do not want the fabric to shrink a lot.
Wash the flannel item by hand or by washing machine with a light detergent with either cold or lukewarm water. This will stop shrinkage as much as possible.
Using a trip dryer will shrink your item, so instead, air dry either flat or on a line in the shade.
Iron the item with a warm iron on moderate heat using an up and down motion.
Create your free account and begin your sustainability journey.
